Rome – Transatlantic 2009 Day 4 – Touring Rome
November 28, 2009
Yesterday was our first full day in Rome and boy did we get out and about in the town. We hoofed it around town to the tune of 6 or 7 miles of walking. It was a good full day and we saw some wonderful sites. The kids did a great job of keeping up.
Suzanne and I were up and about at our normal time of about 6 in the morning, but we let the kids sleep in until about 8 or so to make sure there were no ill effects of jet lag from the trip over. I cooked us a breakfast of eggs, bacon and sausage with some nice bread. Everyone must have been hungry because there wasn’t a scrap of anything left.
It was just past nine when we headed out for the day. First stop, the Collesium. Along the way we visited several smaller lesser known Forums (vs the Roman Forum) and also saw Trajan’s Market. The kids seemed quite interested in the ancient ruins and sites.
As we arrived at the Collesium, they both kind of had a ‘whoa’ statement as it is quite a site when you see it for the first time. Personally, I have toured the inside of the Collesium twice and Suzanne once. We debated getting a guided tour for the kids, but decided not too. After about a 20 minute wait in line, we had our tickets and walked around the behemoth. Sean was quite interested in the underground structures and tunnels beneath what would have been the Collesium floor. They used to have a walkway/platform that went across the Collesium but for some reason it was no longer there, so you were limited to walking around the forum where the seats for patrons would have been – not sure why it was removed as it gave you a better view of the ruins that would have been under the wooden floor. Most people assume that the Collesium floor would have been earthen, but it actually was wooden spanning a series of rooms and tunnels. The wood floor was covered with dirt or at times water for naval battles. Using a system of trap doors, they could more easily move sets, animals and humans into the Collesium for the shows/battles.
After the Collseium, we walked over to the nearby Roman Forum (Foro Romano). In what was another change to my earlier visits (around 7) on business, you now had to pay for the Forum. It used to be open and free. Actually, you now paid one fee for the Collesium, Forum and Palantine Hill (residences of Roman Leaders) where as before the Collesium and Palantine Hill had separate fees and the Forum was free. It struck me as odd and unfortunate as I would always make multiple visits to the Forum on a trip and just walk around and look at structures or grab a bench and just sit and stare. Guess I couldn’t do that know. The tickets you bought were good for a two visits over a 3 three day period.
There was also a tremendous amount of archaeological and excavating going on at the Forum. New stuff had been discovered and funding secured so many areas I used to visit were now blocked off. There was also a bunch of very weird and odd, modern sculptures scattered throughout the forum in an art exhibit format. I just didn’t get that crappy white art being scattered around the forum. It looked very out of place and actually quite a distraction. Hopefully, its a very short term thing so that not too many one time visitors to the forum have to see it.
After the Forum, we walked up to Palantine Hill and took in the old ruins there. Its quite amazing how the Roman rich and elite lived. They even had their own mini stadium. This was only my second trip to Palantine Hill so I saw some ‘new’ stuff myself. We saved our self an extended walk out to Circus Maximus as its easily visible below one of the overlooks at Palantine Hill. It was actually quite disappointing to see it. It has come in to much disrepair from previous visits. It has never really been kept up as a monument or historic site, but it used to have grass and a track of sorts around it. I remember it being frequented by people and dogs with folks laying around and frisbees being tossed. But now was almost a dirt patch completely with a monument sitting above it. Too bad, it could be another good tourist site or its previous park like area with just a bit of work. But, it clearly didn’t warrant a special trip down to see.
After Palantine Hill, we grabbed some lunch at a pizzeria just outside the Forum. Very nice to sip on a glass of wine and eat some pizza while still able to marvel at the old ruins and structures.
On the way back, we visited quite a few fountains and a couple of piazzas. Savannah was really jonesing for some Gelato and to go back to Trevi Fountain so she could throw some coins into the fountain. Both kids remarked that they liked the view of the Trevi Fountain at night vs day. We also got the requisite pictures and video of everyone throwing a coin in the fountain symbolizing that they would again visit Rome one day.
We arrived back to the apartment a bit before 6 pm. Suzanne and Savannah decided to go hit a couple of local stored looking for some souvenirs. Sean had already picked up a hat and a t-shirt during the day, so he and I remained in the apartment while the girls went out.
It was about 8 at night when we headed out for dinner. We had thought we would venture out to one of my favorite restaurants that night, but given the amount of walking already done, opted for a more local restaurant, my favorite Enoteca (wine bar) just a block from the apartment. We enjoyed another wonderful meal. Suzanne opted for some gnocchi in a tomato sauce. Sean went for my favorite Spaghetti Carbonara. Savannah enjoyed meatballs in tomato sauce declaring them to be the best meatballs she had ever eaten. I resisted the urge for more Carbonara myself and instead devoured some Penne Amatriciana. Suzanne and I enjoyed a bottle of nice Italian red. It was another typical, fantastic Roman meal.
We returned to the apartment a bit after 10:00 and had fun recounting the days activities. It was lights out at about 11:30 with the next days activities planned.
Be sure to follow our travel exploits on this blog as I try to make a daily update of our Rome and transatlantic cruise. Today, we will be swinging over to the Vatican and seeing stuff out there. Should be another fun day!
Rome – Transatlantic 2009 Days 2 and 3 – Arrival in Rome
November 26, 2009
Our vacation to Rome and Transatlantic cruise back home continued today with our departure from Dallas after a nice pre Thanksgiving dinner with the Pechuls and Jarzynkas. I have combined days 2 and 3 into a single blog entry since most of the time was spent in airports or on airplanes.
Our departure from DFW to London was scheduled for about 5 pm. Being the day before Thanksgiving and knowing how hectic DFW airport can be anyways having lived there for a dozen years, we mad plans to get to the airport about 3 hours early. In deed, there were cars and folks heading to the airport in droves. It like looked a mess. I had also hoped getting there so early might miss some of the international traveling crowd and maybe even in slip us in between the morning international departures and the evening departures. But, I couldn’t have possibly hoped for what we saw when we walked into the terminal. There was maybe a dozen folks there. We walked right up, checked in and went through security all in about 10 minutes! Talking to the American agents, they said the other terminals were absolutely bonkers with long delays to check in and get through security – somewhere between an hour and two. Off to a good start!
The flight to London wasn’t very full with quite a few empty coach seats. I did miss my business class seat that I normally get to travel in for work, but an eight hour flight is not an eternity. We left about 5 minutes late but were expected to arrive 20 minutes early. The flight was uneventful except for the drunk Brit sitting behind me. He pretty much poured himself onto the plane and then proceeded to have another 4 or 5 beers in the first couple hours. He wasn’t really that bad or loud except if you sat in front of him or across the aisle. He was a complete idiot to his girlfriend calling her just about every name in the book. I am not sure if Savannah, sitting next to me, took note of this or not – I don’t think so.
None of us got any sleep on the way over to London. Everyone but Sean tried to sleep but was unsuccessful. When we arrived in London, it was only 12:30 am our time, so tired was just starting to set in. We had a three hour layover in London and a two and a half hour flight to Rome, so we were hoping to get a couple hours there and feel refreshed enough for the day. Having done quite a few international business trips, the key is just staying awake from that point on until a slightly late bedtime and also getting some walking in after arrival.
Another uneventful flight, unless you count the pretty much horrid British sandwiches served on the flight (egg and tomato or double cheese and red onion), put us into Rome about 2 in the afternoon. It took quite a long time for our baggage to arrive (almost 40 mins) but we breezed through security/customs in about 30 seconds. The passport guys looked at our US passports covers and just waved us through.
Our prearranged driver was waiting for us right outside the security area. He quickly walked us to his van and we were off. The kids got their first taste of driving in Rome. I like to say that street signs, markings, lights and other ‘normal’ driving rules/aids are purely optional in Rome. Its always an experience. In all my trips to Rome, I have never gotten a car and don’t ever plan to. Watching the thousands of folks on their mopeds, Vespas, or motorcycles and how they dart in and out of traffic, makes you wonder how any of them every make it to retirement.
It took us about an hour and fifteen minutes to get to our apartment which could not be better located in Old Rome. The driver took us right to the door step though this meant navigating down very narrow, motor bike lined road. There were many times when there was less than an inch or two of passage on either side. At one point, his female companion even had to get out and move a moped a couple of inches. All very convenient for us!
After getting squared away in the apartment, the landlord was there waiting for us and helped get us settled, we decided to get some supplies. First stop was the grocery store (not like in America – smaller than your local 7-11). We like to make our own breakfast in the morning before setting out.
It was probably 5:30 when we headed out for touring, so darkness was settling in. The Spanish Steps were a couple blocks away, so we went their first. As usual, they were quite a few folks sitting around and enjoying the piazza area. Then we headed over to the Pantheon. Along the way, I checked out many of my favorite restaurants and Enoteca (wine bar) that I liked to frequent. They were all still there though one had at least changed names. Savannah did some serious window shopping. She has been saving up some money from her home chores and wants to buy some shoes, a purse and maybe a coat.
Suzanne had never seen the Pantheon at night before, but its my favorite time to see it. I like the way its light and how you look up into darkness through the opening in the room. When we walked in, Sean’s first words were ‘Whoa’. It is quite a marvel of engineering accomplishment.
After the Pantheon, we decided to get some dinner. It was a bit early for Rome standards at 7:00 but a bit late for us since we didn’t really have lunch (remember the Brit sandwiches?). We set off one of Suzanne’s favorite Roman local, off the beaten path restaurants. We first ate there back in 2000 time frame, but I took my business colleagues there whenever on travel. We like to say we discovered this quaint little family owned Ristorante where English isn’t spoken. A couple years later, Rick Steves actually found it too and had it on one of his Travel Europe shows, but we found it first!
Suzanne enjoyed a Scampi dish while Sean and I went the pasta route. Sean had Spaghetti Amatriciana (tomota sauce with bacon) and I had a Spaghetti Carbonara (egg and cheese sauce with bacon). Some form of Carbonara is one of my favorite Roman dishes and I have been on many quests for the best Carbonara in Rome. Savannah had lasagna and claimed it was the best she had ever had – better than what they serve in the States. We split a couple of Tiramisu for dessert. Hmmmmm….
After dinner, we headed off to the Trevi Fountain another nice tourist spot at night. It was one of the two top spots in Rome that Savannah wanted to see (the Collesium was #1 for both). The weather was very nice in Rome – cloudy but cool, somewhere in the 60s, so it was a nice night for walking. Savannah enjoyed the Trevi Fountain, but we didn’t have any coins, so we will have to go back and toss a few in the very large fountain. Local rumor has it that if you toss a coin in the fountain, you will return to Rome again. It’s worked for Suzanne and I!
From there, we headed back to the apartment, arriving there around 9:30. We had hoped to stay up until close to 11 to just to make sure the transition was complete, but we were all pretty tired, so it was lights out just after 10 – the end of a very good first day in Rome!
Be sure to follow our travel exploits on this blog as I try to make a daily update of our Rome and transatlantic cruise. Today, we are off to the Collesium, the Arches of Constantine and Titus, the Forum and Pallantine Hill plus a few other sites. Should be a fun day!
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